Fianarantsoa is 8 hours by road south of Antananarivo, Madagascar’s capital city. There is no air service but frequent bush taxis ply the main RN7 artery. It is also easy to rent a car and driver in the capital city or to arrange a visit through one of the many travel agencies in Antananarivo. Fianarantsoa is the jumping off point for the FCE train, and three national parks that are in striking distance (Ranomafana: 1 ½ hours; Andringitra: 4 hours; Isalo: 5 hours). Visitors aiming for any of these destinations are strongly encouraged to spend an extra night in Fianarantsoa, allowing sufficient time for a leisurely visit to the Old City.

Map of the Old City’s major walkways and routes (click for a larger version)

If you are taking a taxi from anywhere in Fianarantsoa up to the Old City, ask for the Cathedral or Antsenakely (the little market). You can also quite easily walk to the Old City from town. Depending on your walking speed up a rather steep hill, it will take you from 10 to 20 minutes from the Tsara Guest House, or 20-30 minutes from the center of town. From the Antsenakely parking area, the site can only be discovered on foot (since the Old City is a pedestrian zone).

You can freely wander the site, finding hidden alleyways between the densely situated houses. You will almost certainly come across a rehabilitation project and be able to observe the construction of a roof or the resurfacing of a mud wall. When the weather is pleasant, the late afternoon light casts a particularly pleasant aura on the earth-toned buildings and sunsets from the hillside are often spectacular. But, an early morning walk can be equally lovely, especially when the Old City rises above the clouds that blanket the lower city. During the day, the site is alive with activity as children race up and down the steep walkways to the elementary school at the top of the hill, others play games in the streets, women do their laundry in the public wash station or shop at the daily market. A walk around the top of the hill offers spectacular views over Fianarantsoa and the surrounding countryside. In short, the Old City is no museum, but a vibrant dynamic community that can be enjoyed in a leisurely visit of several hours. If you are short of time, a walk to the top of the hill and down can be done in 30 to 45 minutes.

Guides

Local children have organized a junior guide service through which they also sell handmade cards “to pay for school fees.” Some people enjoy the children’s company; others do not. If you do not want to be accompanied by children, it is best to tell them firmly and then not converse further. If you do want to visit the site with the children, they will be happy to show you around and answer your questions. The standard guide “fee” for these children is 1000 Ar per tourist per visit (paid to the group at the end of the visit), that they are expected to share among all the guides on duty that day. In order to avoid being pestered for card sales, it is advised to clearly communicate to the children that if you buy a card, it will only be at the end of the visit and once you reach the parking area.

If you want to visit the site on your own, the main walk/stairway leads to the top of the hill. You will certainly want to walk to the top and take the short circular path around the summit. You should at a minimum also take the path along the east flank of the hillside. Turn left just before the SNACK as you mount the main staircase as this will take you by several rehabilitated buildings, the Randzavola College, and lovely views over Fianarantsoa before returning you to the main walkway at Peniela B&B. If you prefer to take this detour on your way down the hill, take the path to the right just after Peniela B&B, it will wind around to bring you back to the Snack and the main path down to the parking area. The rest of your meanderings should be determined by your time and interest. You can wander through the smallest alleyways, admiring details on buildings, exploring stairways … we are trying to improve the pathways and signage and expect to “open” additional easily navigated walks during the year.

Food and Drink

The intimate Imanoela SNACK occupies part of a rehabilitated house and pocket garden in the center of the Old City (about half way up the hill on the main stair/walkway). The Snack is run by a local family that takes pride in its friendly service and use of fresh local products, including delicious homemade soups and sandwiches, fresh squeezed fruit juices, and pastries straight out of the oven. Don’t miss the specialty of the house : a rich chocolate brownie, with vanilla ice cream and dark chocolate sauce. The Snack is open daily except Sunday from 9am to 6pm (or sundown). They will open early for breakfast and are happy to serve family style dinners after 6 pm if an order is placed in advance : (261) 33.11.891.23.

The family respects very strict hygiene conditions and is therefore one of the most reliable restaurant of the city. Eat and drink with confidence!

Please do stop and support this local business!

Lodging

There is no better way to savor the Old City than to stay few days. You will enjoy the changes in lighting over the course of the day, as well as the rhythm of life as the cacophony of the day gives way to the gentle quiet of the starlit night. You do not need to worry that a stay in the Old City will isolate you from the rest of the town: it is a short 20 minute walk down the hill to the main part of Fianarantsoa, including the main market, railway station, etc. Taxis to town are available in front of the Cathedral. Housing options in the Old City include a B&B run by the FJKM church and homestay options, the latter being particularly appropriate for people who want to immerse themselves in the community and plan to stay at least a few days.

Peniela B&B occupies a lovingly restored presbytery building across from the FJKM Tranobiriky church (near the top of the hill, on the main walkway). Simple, clean and well appointed rooms (with shared facilities and indoor plumbing) range in price from 32.000 Ar for a double room to 67.000 Ar for a studio. Reservations : peniela.house@yahoo.fr or (261) 32.40.486.56

For people wishing to stay a bit longer and get to know the people and community better, PSOC has worked with several families to provide homestay options that offer rooms with local families. Homestays ensure that significant benefits stay in the community and contribute to the economic health of the Old City. The rooms are immaculately clean and tasteful, with comfortable bamboo furniture, private verandas, and beautiful views. Toilet facilities (usually shared with the family) are clean composting outhouses; hot water is provided in buckets for showers, and all rooms have electricity. Meals are available at the Snack, which is just a few steps away and the occasional meal can also be organized with the host family for visitors who wish to do so. Homestay lodgings are most appropriate for people travelling at a leisurely pace who are able to stay at least three nights. Some of the lodgings have small kitchenettes with a gas burner for students, researchers, and other visitors who wish to rent rooms for longer periods. Reduced weekly and monthly rates are offered. We are in the process of establishing an independent reservation system, but until such time as it is fully functional, reservations can be made through PSOC : psvv@moov.mg or (261) 20.75.903.49 (business hours) or (261) 32.55.357.95 (Sophie).

Homestay Rates

The Following are indicative rates for homestay lodgings. Since each situation is a bit different, we advise you to contact PSOC for exact details and to confirm arrangements. Options vary depending on seasonal availability.

In all cases it is necessary to make reservations in advance. You can pick up homestay keys at the SNACK, while Peniela keys are available at the crafts shop across from the Tranobiriky church. If you let your host (SNACK or Peniela) know your arrival time by phone, they will help you organize porters to carry your baggage and ensure that you are met at the parking area.

We hope you enjoy your stay and that you enjoy learning more about the Old City and efforts to restore the site. We much appreciate your interest.

“What a great place to stay!  I felt very welcome in the Old City, and the accomodations were wonderful!”